Old Cheese -- D
May. 17th, 2005 06:38 amThe Dutch have a fine cheesemaking tradition so I don’t know why they do it. They produce one of the best cheeses in the world: Aged gouda. Really aged gouda is amazing, like addictive cheese candy. It’s sweet like caramel, sharp, and salty: three of the best tastes in the whole world. I routinely eat it until it gives me a stomach ache but I don’t care. It has to be aged three or four years to be that good, and there are many producers. The ones from North Holland (including Saenkanter) are supposed to be the best because of the grass up there, but honestly, it’s hard to go wrong with anything aged over 3 years.
But I guess since they are not French or Italian, and lacking the name-controls and international cheese respect those countries have, they feel like they have to try harder So they come up with the worst names and marketing campaigns in the whole world of cheese.*
The Dutch however, consistently come up with things that make me groan. First off, there’s Parrano. I may have mentioned this before but even though I love eating the cheese their marketing campaigns annoy and embarrass me. Parrano is a 9 month-ish Dutch gouda with added starter cultures from Italian cheese. It’s a nice cheese, just starting to get that aged gouda sweetness. I’m happy to sell and eat it.
But man, their first slogan was "Parrano: the Dutch cheese that thinks it’s Italian". Personally, I wouldn’t buy a cheese that had such identity issues and obviously needed therapy. On the other hand, who am I to say that a cheese can’t transition if it truly feels it is Italian, not Dutch? I fully support the right of trans-cheese to self-identify. But if this is indeed the case, the slogan belittles those desires by referring to Parrano as "Dutch" first, implying a naturalistic definition of country-of-origin and that Parrano’s self-identification is somehow not real or valid. Either way: bad slogan.
But even worse was "Move over Parmesan, here comes Parrano!" I’m sensing marketing make-work job for someone’s slow cousin here. 1. It tastes nothing like Parmigiano Reggiano 2. I do like it better than domestic parmesan but people will be surprised if their spaghetti is really sweet all of a sudden and 3. Do you think we’re stupid?
That didn’t last long and we soon got "Sort of Italian". This is the most mysterious of all. My reaction is, "Look, if you don’t know where this cheese came from, why should I buy it?" When I hear this slogan I also feel like it’s going to be delivered out of the trunk of someone’s car. This is not a slogan that inspires confidence.
Many Dutch cheese names don’t inspire confidence either. The newest one is Beemster which none of us has been able to say without adding ", Dude" at the end. It’s attempting to take some market share away from Old Amsterdam which has the taste of an 18th month gouda. Again a perfectly fine cheese, Dude. Another one with a similar flavor profile is called "Aged for You". Anticipating the Abbot and Costello** routine:
"What’s this cheese called?"
"It’s Aged for You"
"Don’t be condescending, I asked you what this cheese is called"
"It’s Aged for You"
I named it "Dutch one year aged gouda" when putting it on file.
One company also named a couple of their other cheeses Prima Donna, completely unaware, (and I know this because I asked), that Prima Donna can have a negative connotation in English.
"Do you know what most people think when they hear the name of this cheese?"
(in Dutch accent) "It is the Prima Donna, the best cheese"
"No, they think this cheese is spoiled and has an attitude problem"
There’s also the straight up implied association angle. One excellent cheese, available aged 9 months or 3 years, named itself "Roomano". That’s right, not "Romano" the world’s best known aged sheep cheese, but "Roomano". There was confusion and chaos in the cheese aisle. Sheep cheese mixing with cow cheese. Dutch and Italian identity confusion. I ended up dropping it until they changed its name to Pradera, another meaningless name, but a less confusing one.
My least favorite Dutch named cheese is the most popular Dutch sheep milk cheese other than the Lamb Chopper which is sold under the Cypress Grove label. Guaranteed to embarrass cheesemongers everywhere by invoking a dreaded cheese pun. Can you guess?
Ewephoria. Ewephoria. Ewephoria! I wish I had just re-named it "Dutch sheep gouda" when I had the chance.
*At least on a consistent basis. "Fromage a Trois" from Cypress Grove is my least favorite of all time. But they are redeemed by also producing "Humbolt Fog", one of the best named cheeses.
**See, if I was Dutch I’d make some cheese pun like Abbey and Castello.
But I guess since they are not French or Italian, and lacking the name-controls and international cheese respect those countries have, they feel like they have to try harder So they come up with the worst names and marketing campaigns in the whole world of cheese.*
The Dutch however, consistently come up with things that make me groan. First off, there’s Parrano. I may have mentioned this before but even though I love eating the cheese their marketing campaigns annoy and embarrass me. Parrano is a 9 month-ish Dutch gouda with added starter cultures from Italian cheese. It’s a nice cheese, just starting to get that aged gouda sweetness. I’m happy to sell and eat it.
But man, their first slogan was "Parrano: the Dutch cheese that thinks it’s Italian". Personally, I wouldn’t buy a cheese that had such identity issues and obviously needed therapy. On the other hand, who am I to say that a cheese can’t transition if it truly feels it is Italian, not Dutch? I fully support the right of trans-cheese to self-identify. But if this is indeed the case, the slogan belittles those desires by referring to Parrano as "Dutch" first, implying a naturalistic definition of country-of-origin and that Parrano’s self-identification is somehow not real or valid. Either way: bad slogan.
But even worse was "Move over Parmesan, here comes Parrano!" I’m sensing marketing make-work job for someone’s slow cousin here. 1. It tastes nothing like Parmigiano Reggiano 2. I do like it better than domestic parmesan but people will be surprised if their spaghetti is really sweet all of a sudden and 3. Do you think we’re stupid?
That didn’t last long and we soon got "Sort of Italian". This is the most mysterious of all. My reaction is, "Look, if you don’t know where this cheese came from, why should I buy it?" When I hear this slogan I also feel like it’s going to be delivered out of the trunk of someone’s car. This is not a slogan that inspires confidence.
Many Dutch cheese names don’t inspire confidence either. The newest one is Beemster which none of us has been able to say without adding ", Dude" at the end. It’s attempting to take some market share away from Old Amsterdam which has the taste of an 18th month gouda. Again a perfectly fine cheese, Dude. Another one with a similar flavor profile is called "Aged for You". Anticipating the Abbot and Costello** routine:
"What’s this cheese called?"
"It’s Aged for You"
"Don’t be condescending, I asked you what this cheese is called"
"It’s Aged for You"
I named it "Dutch one year aged gouda" when putting it on file.
One company also named a couple of their other cheeses Prima Donna, completely unaware, (and I know this because I asked), that Prima Donna can have a negative connotation in English.
"Do you know what most people think when they hear the name of this cheese?"
(in Dutch accent) "It is the Prima Donna, the best cheese"
"No, they think this cheese is spoiled and has an attitude problem"
There’s also the straight up implied association angle. One excellent cheese, available aged 9 months or 3 years, named itself "Roomano". That’s right, not "Romano" the world’s best known aged sheep cheese, but "Roomano". There was confusion and chaos in the cheese aisle. Sheep cheese mixing with cow cheese. Dutch and Italian identity confusion. I ended up dropping it until they changed its name to Pradera, another meaningless name, but a less confusing one.
My least favorite Dutch named cheese is the most popular Dutch sheep milk cheese other than the Lamb Chopper which is sold under the Cypress Grove label. Guaranteed to embarrass cheesemongers everywhere by invoking a dreaded cheese pun. Can you guess?
Ewephoria. Ewephoria. Ewephoria! I wish I had just re-named it "Dutch sheep gouda" when I had the chance.
*At least on a consistent basis. "Fromage a Trois" from Cypress Grove is my least favorite of all time. But they are redeemed by also producing "Humbolt Fog", one of the best named cheeses.
**See, if I was Dutch I’d make some cheese pun like Abbey and Castello.